El Salvador shutters historic human rights clinic

Nina Lakhani

Neris Gonzalez would journey 25km every week from her rural village in San Vicente, El Salvador to the nearest town in order to phone Archbishop Oscar Romero. Gonzalez, a 23-year-old community leader, would recount the latest murders, disappearances and mutilations committed by security forces in her district to the Archbishop.

This was 1978, a time of increasing repression and human rights violations in El Salvador in the run-up to the coup d’état in October 1979 and subsequent 12-year civil war.

Archbishop Romero founded the Human Rights Office, originally known as Socorro Juridico (Legal Relief) in 1977, in order to document these abuses from across the country. It was one of the only places people could go to report state-sponsored crimes.

Every Sunday until his assassination in March 1980, Romero would broadcast a homily from the grand cathedral in the capital San Salvador which included the latest denunciations. Communities in every tiny village and hard luck neighbourhood could be found huddled over battery-operated radios listening to his homilies which disseminated the horrors being inflicted upon civilians.

Since then, the Archbishop’s Human Rights and Legal Aid Office, known as Tutela Legal since 1982, has documented more than 50,000 cases of human rights abuses – before, during and after the civil war which ended in 1992. It holds the most comprehensive archive of El Salvador’s bloody history and its lawyers continue to represent survivors of notorious massacres including El Mozote and Rio Sumpul.

End of an era

On September 30 the staff arrived at work to find the locks changed and armed guards on the doors. They were allowed 10 minutes to clear their desks chaperoned by the security guards.

The current Archbishop, José Luis Escobar Alas, had closed Tutela Legal and issued a statement saying its work was “no longer relevant”. Two days later Escobar Alas said it was a normal part of restructuring and modernisation and a more relevant organisation would open in due course.

The closure triggered national and international condemnation from faith, human rights and solidarity groups, with large protests outside the Archdiocese. The biggest concern is about the safety and preservation of the huge paper archive without which any future legal action against perpetrators, who have enjoyed full impunity until now, could prove impossible.

The disbanding of Tutela at this moment in El Salvador history cannot be a coincidence.

– Patty Blum, legal advisor

The timing of the closure has caused widespread suspicion.

Ten days earlier the Supreme Court accepted a case challenging the constitutionality of the amnesty law brought by several human rights organisations.

The highly controversial amnesty law passed by the military-allied Nationalist Republican Alliance (Arena) government in 1993 absolved all those guilty of human rights atrocities. It meant the death squads, paramilitaries, security forces, and Farabundo Marti National Liberation Front (FMLN) leftist guerrillas responsible for the 80,000 deaths and 8,000 disappeared have never been held to account.

The surprise decision by the usually conservative Supreme Court Constitutional Chamber renewed hope of the amnesty law being repealed and the possibility of finally prosecuting those responsible for thousands of crimes forensically investigated and documented by Tutela Legal.

This court ruling came soon after the FMLN government’s attorney general re-opened the investigation into the 1981 El Mozote massacre in which at least 800 civilians were killed by the army. This decision was a direct response to the Inter-American Commission on Human Rights (IACHR) which in October 2012 ruled the amnesty illegal.

Tutela Legal began gathering testimonies and investigating the El Mozote massacre almost immediately. They first lodged the case with the IACHR in 1990, sticking with it for 22 years before last year’s ruling.

In the past 15 years Tutela Legal’s work has proven crucial in cases brought against senior military figures living in the United States.

‘No coincidence’

Patty Blum, senior legal advisor to the San Francisco based Centre for Justice and Accountability, told Al Jazeera: “We owe a debt to Tutela Legal for their scrupulous documentation of the abuses occurring during the Salvadoran conflict. We made use, in multiple ways, of their materials in the civil cases we brought in the US and Spain against top commanders of the Salvadoran military for crimes, including the murder of Archbishop Romero and the 1989 assassinations of six Jesuits priests.”

She added: “The disbanding of Tutela at this moment in El Salvador history cannot be a coincidence.”

Tutela Legal was also active in new cases, such as the 2007 Red car battery factory lead-poisoning case, and ran education programmes and human rights training across El Salvador.

CAFOD, the official Catholic aid agency for England and Wales, is among dozens of groups demanding a U-turn by the Archbishop and guarantees about the archives.

Clare Dixon, CAFOD’s head of Latin America, told Al Jazeera: “Whilst the civil war may be over, El Salvador is a desperately polarised society and there are still huge issues of justice and peace and human rights violations. Tutela’s forensic research and legal accompaniment is still vital as communities find themselves at the mercy of abusive practices by mining and extractive industries, gang violence and organised crime.”

Oscar Romero’s libertarian theology and work with the country’s most oppressed people continued after his murder with Archbishop Arturo Rivera y Damas until 1994. But since then the Catholic Church hierarchy in El Salvador has reverted back to its conservative roots, with many social and education programmes closed by Parish priests, Bethany Loberg from NGO Share-El Salvador told Al Jazeera.

Escobar Alas, appointed Archbishop in 2008, is a well-known religious and political conservative, widely reported as a member of the right-wing group Opus Dei.
A Salvadorian walks by a poster with portraits of El Salvador’s last civil war (1980-1992) victims [EPA]

In August 2011 he said: “I cannot imagine if all the cases were opened. When will we live in peace, I do not think this generation want to spend their lives discussing the past, especially as there are abundant cases committed by both sides … Possibly the Amnesty Law is the most appropriate mechanism to maintain peace.”

Escobar Alas caused controversy last December after ordering the removal of a symbolic peace mural that adorned the San Salvador Cathedral without consulting anyone, not even the government or revered the artist, Fernando Llort.

His most recent communique on Tutela Legal cast a shadow over the reputation of staff with nebulous accusations of corruption and mismanagement.

In response to the closure President Maurico Funes has said: “I am concerned by the bad sign and message this sends. With this decision the Archbishop is not accompanying the just causes of people.”

Human Rights Ombudsman David Morales, a former Tutela Legal employee who helped take the Romero murder to the IACHR, has threatened legal action against the Archdiocese unless his team are given access to the archives.

Opposition party Arena, current favourites to win next year’s general election, have remained silent on the closure and did not respond to Al Jazeera’s request for comment.

The Tutela Legal cases include Neris Gonzalez. In December 1979 she was subjected to two weeks of horrific torture by National Guard officers who left her for dead on a dump.

Gonzalez told Al Jazeera: “This arbitrary closure is a disrespectful hijacking of the historical memories from us victims. I feel re-victimised by the Archbishop’s abusive act but there must be others behind it.”

Honduras coffee exports fall by more than a fifth in 2012/2013

UPDATE 1-Honduras coffee exports fall by more than a fifth in 2012/2013 – RTRS
01-Oct-2013 20:01

TEGUCIGALPA, Oct 1 (Reuters) – Coffee exports from Honduras, Central America’s top producer, fell 20.8 percent during the 2012/2013 season compared to the previous cycle because of the deadly fungal outbreak roya, the country’s national coffee institute IHCAFE said on Tuesday.
IHCAFE said exports during the harvesting season, which closed last month, totaled 4.34 million 60-kg bags.
September shipments reached 49,536 60-kg bags, 76.1 percent below the comparable month of the 2011/2012 season, IHCAFE said.
“Roya has hit our (coffee) farms hard during this harvest,” said IHCAFE director Rene Leon.
IHCAFE sees exports during the 2013/2014 season at 4.6 million 60-kg bags, which would mark a 7 percent increase over the previous cycle’s shipments.
Separately, Costa Rica’s coffee institute Icafe said exports fell 8.1 percent in September to 37,672 60-kg bags from 41,020 bags during the same month a year earlier.
Costa Rican exports for the 2012/2013 Oct.-Sept. season totaled 1.398 million bags, down from 1.422 million bags the previous year.
Central America’s major coffee-producing countries are all grappling with the spread of roya, or coffee leaf rust, which is expected to reduce production by 16 percent during the current season. (Full Story)
The coffee season in Central America and Mexico, which together produce more than one-fifth of the world’s arabica beans, runs from October through September.

Table of monthly coffee exports from five Central American producing countries and Mexico: http://link.reuters.com/qan53v

Mexico to mull spending around $200 mln to help coffee farmers battle leaf rust

By David Alire Garcia

MEXICO CITY, Sept 25 (Reuters) – Mexico’s Congress will consider spending 2.75 billion pesos ($212 million) to help coffee farmers hit by a major outbreak of leaf rust and falling prices, a senior lawmaker said on Wednesday.

The funding would aim to provide farmers with subsidies, replace ageing plantations, and give new credit and training opportunities following the spread of the tree-killing fungus roya.

“Those of us on the agriculture committee are budgeting 2.75 billion pesos to be able to address all of these questions,” Hector Narcia, chairman of the coffee sub-committee from the lower house’s agriculture committee, told Reuters.

“What we’re going to do is convince our colleagues to approve a significant budget. If that doesn’t happen, we are practically sounding the death knell for this product.”

Coffee prices have fallen by about half from a mid-2011 peak, leaving farmers to face a double-whammy of less revenue on top of depressed output from infected trees.

The deadly fungus that has hit Central America particularly hard this year kills leaves on coffee trees, with weakened plants producing less coffee. Between them, Mexico and Central America account for more than a fifth of global output of arabica beans.

Coffee farmers also need affordable insurance and price hedges, which the proposed funds could provide, said Narcia, a member of Mexico’s Green Party, coalition partners of President Enrique Pena Nieto’s Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI).

The finance ministry submitted the 2014 budget proposal to the lower house earlier this month and Congress is due to approve the funding plan for next year by mid-November.

Narcia said he and other members of Congress had been touring major coffee-producing areas, and that the government’s campaign launched in February to prevent coffee leaf rust had had some success.

PRICE PRESSURES

Gabriel Barreda, head of Mexico’s national coffee association AMECAFE, said in a separate interview that he strongly supports subsidies for farmers and that the lobby will present its own budget request in “less than 20 days.”

Mexico’s southern Chiapas state is the country’s top coffee producer, and also most affected by roya, Barreda said.

Chiapas is home to about 36 percent of Mexico’s coffee-farming land, and about 16 percent of the state’s farms, or 40,000 hectares, are currently blighted by roya, said Greens lawmaker Narcia, himself a native of the state.

Narcia said about a quarter of Mexico’s 700,000 hectares of coffee plantations had been infected by roya.

Government subsidies have been used in other coffee-producing countries in the region such as Colombia, and they help producers to remain competitive, dealers say.

Producers in Colombia, the world’s top supplier of washed arabica coffee, lowered their price premium for so-called usual good quality (UGQ) beans to an 11-month low last week as they drew in more business ahead of their biggest crop in six years.

Latin American growers are already suffering from low coffee prices, which are believed to be below the cost of production in several countries. Abundant global supplies have pushed the arabica market to the lowest in more than four years.

The price of the most active arabica futures contract fell last week to $1.1110 per lb, the lowest since April 2009. ($1 = 12.9693 Mexican pesos) (Additional reporting by Marcy Nicholson in New York; Editing by Dave Graham)

Consumption Patterns By Generation

NCA Tracks Consumption Patterns By Generation

New NCDT Tracking Study Examines Behaviors of

Millennials, Generation X and Baby Boomers

New York, NY (September 26, 2013) – NCA has published Coffee Across Generations, a new report in the NCA’s National Coffee Drinking Trends market research series. The report analyzes differences in consumption behaviors and attitudes among the widely recognized generational groupings.

“Understanding how coffee consumption patterns vary by age is critical to a marketer’s successful strategies,” said NCA President & CEO Robert F. Nelson. “With today’s widely acknowledged generational differences in temperament, attitude and behavior, it is more important than ever to custom fit marketing approaches to attract and sustain a diverse, yet loyal customer base.”

In general terms, Coffee Across Generations reveals that total coffee consumption skews older, while the consumption of gourmet coffee beverages trends younger. Other data show that the more mature groups are more likely to use a drip coffee maker, while the younger cohorts favor espresso machines and ready-to-drink coffee. Awareness of single-serve brewers is higher among the older groups, but predisposition to buy one is stronger among younger consumers.

Consumption Data

Specifically, the report shows that seventy-eight percent of “Millennials” said they have consumed coffee within the last year, compared with 85% of those in Generation X, 86% of Baby Boomers, and 90% of more mature consumers. The spread was more pronounced for daily consumption at 47%, 68%, 72% and 80%, respectively.

However, for gourmet coffee beverages, the trend is reversed. Seventy-four percent of Millennials said they’ve consumed a gourmet coffee beverage within the past year. That compares with 72% of GenXers, 59% of Baby Boomers, and 53% of the more mature.

Regarding coffee brewing methods, 62% of the more mature group said they use a drip coffee maker, compared with 53% of Millennials. As for single-serve brewing systems, 88% of Baby Boomers and 90% of the more mature group said they are aware, as compared with 76% of Millennials. However, about one-quarter of Millennials and GenXers said they’d be likely to buy a single-serve brewer, whereas just 12% of Baby Boomers and 8% of the more mature said the same.

Additional Data

Other data in the report span a wide array of consumption choices, patterns, frequency and attitudes. The detailed tracking data broken out by generational groups includes: consumption time of day, share of cups of gourmet versus non-gourmet coffee, home versus out-of-home consumption, place of preparation and consumption, breakouts of coffee types and gourmet sub-types, coffee additive preferences, coffee and health attitudes, workplace coffee satisfaction, packaging format and, for single-serve brewers, the time owned, purchase likelihood, types of beverages made, and quality attitudes.

National Coffee Drinking Trends Series

Coffee Across Generations is part of the NCA’s National Coffee Drinking Trends market research series. These reports are intended to study trends in consumption over time as a way to measure the makeup of the marketplace rather than to provide data on the volumes of coffee people drink on a daily basis or over a lifetime.

NCA’s National Coffee Drinking Trends (NCDT) series has been conducted annually by NCA since 1950. It is the longest available statistical series of consumer drinking patterns in the U.S. The 2013 study engaged a nationally representative sample of 2,840 people 18 and older selected from an online panel.

About the National Coffee Association

The National Coffee Association of U.S.A, Inc. (NCA), established in 1911, is the leading trade organization for the coffee industry in the United States. NCA is the only trade association that serves all segments of the U.S. coffee industry, including traditional and specialty companies. A majority of NCA membership, which accounts for over 90% of U.S. coffee commerce, is comprised of small and mid-sized companies and includes growers, roasters, retailers, importer/exporters, wholesaler/suppliers and allied industry businesses. NCA offers a wide array of services, focusing on market and scientific research, domestic and international government relations, issues management and public relations, and education. The NCA’s core purpose is to champion the well-being of the U.S. coffee industry within the context of the world coffee community. Visit www.ncausa.org for additional information about NCA and the world of coffee.

Zimbabwe’s coffee farmers struggle amid global boom and political gloom

The EU restored aid earlier this year but not to farms on ‘disputed’ land – excluding the majority of small coffee growers
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A misty dawn has not yet given way to daylight in Zimbabwe’s eastern highlands. Lenard Moyo, a coffee farmer near Chipinge town, is prising red arabica beans out of their trees and putting them in his bag – as he does every morning during harvest season.

“It’s hard when it’s so cold outside, but we have to pick them early,” he said.

Zimbabwe’s coffee belt has the perfect growing conditions for the beans: high mountain peaks and cool climates, and the country used to be famous for its “super-high-quality” product, slowly sun-dried, and tasting smooth and fruity. In the 1990s it produced some of the best coffee in the world, alongside South America and Kenya, generating crucial foreign currency and a livelihood for many labourers and small-scale farmers, as well as the big commercial farms.

But today the industry is in decline: many of the mills have been abandoned, farmers are in debt, and Zimbabwe produces just 60 “bags” of coffee beans a year compared with 250 bags in 1988 – with one bag amounting to 60 tonnes of coffee.

Earlier this year the European Union announced €10m (£8.4m) in aid to Zimbabwe’s medium and small-scale farmers, in an attempt to revive the industry. But there’s a catch. “Coffee is an important crop and we’ll consider funding requests from small farmers provided the land involved is not in dispute,” Aldo Dell’Ariccia, head of the EU delegation to Zimbabwe, told the CAJ news agency.

Moyo said this caveat disqualified the majority of farmers. “Most of our small coffee plots are on land being contested in court by former white farmers. We’ll simply not qualify,” he said.

The disputes began in 2000, when young militants loyal to the president, Robert Mugabe, stormed white-owned farms to reclaim the land. At the time, Moyo was what was known as an “out-grower” – a black farmer owning a small plot of land next to a large commercial farm, relying on his neighbours for finance, expertise and machinery.

“First, [the militants] pruned down our coffee beans and burned hectares of trees in a week of rage. Coffee drying pens were turned into nurseries for marijuana and wild vegetables,” he said. “The new farm owners wanted instant profit but a coffee tree once planted takes three to five years to mature.”

Production plummeted as the new land owners could not secure bank loans to buy fertilisers or repair ageing infrastructure. Many were new to the business, and lacked the expertise to keep quality high.

In turn, international buyers began to shun Zimbabwean coffee, and in 2010 the Mutare Coffee Mill, considered one of the best in Africa, was forced to shut down. It required at least 4,000 tonnes of coffee to operate profitably but was receiving just 300.

And while Zimbabwean coffee growers struggle, elsewhere the industry is booming. Ten years ago the average cost of a tonne of coffee was $1,400, now it can fetch up to $4,000 (£2,500), according to the International Coffee Organisation.

“Zimbabwe is losing billions of dollars annually as the price of coffee has increased to about $3 per pound, up from $1 per pound in the 90s,” Gifford Trevor, president of Zimbabwe’s Coffee Growers Association, told News24.

Most of the country’s coffee farmers lack cash reserves to support themselves when the crop fails or yields are low, according to World Vision. The charity is training farmers and offering much-needed supplies such as fertilisers, irrigation systems and pesticides. But the farmers are still unable to compete with better organised growers in countries such as Rwanda, Kenya and Malawi.

The global coffee industry is also stacked against suppliers, with the bulk of the profit going to those further up the chain.

In August, on a sponsored trip to Johannesburg, 39-year-old Moyo tasted his first cappuccino. “I thought it was bitter lemon,” he said. He was particularly horrified to pay $3 for one cup, compared with the $5.30 he receives for a bag of raw coffee beans.

Peter Multz, a former consultant for the Dutch charity SNV, which works with Zimbabwean farmers to improve their business skills, said most of the profit went to shippers, roasters and retailers. He said Zimbabwean farmers also faced particular problems. “Sometimes the coffee is delayed at border crossings for up to a week, and without proper facilities the beans go bad. Sometimes buyers have to pay a bribe to let their coffee shipments go through,” he said.

With a more stable economy and western governments starting to release aid, Zimbabwean farmers hope that the country’s coffee industry will recover. But for Moyo times are still hard: “I can’t even pay my farm workers and coffee pickers properly,” he said. “Sometimes we reward them with milk, soya meals, and clothes after every harvest. As we say here, cash is a crunch.”

Coffee Slumps to Four-Year Low Futures Lose 3.6% Amid Supply Surplus

NEW YORK—Arabica-coffee futures tumbled to their lowest price in more than four years as investors focused on massive global supplies.

Earlier this week, the Green Coffee Association, an industry group, said U.S. stocks of unroasted coffee in August rose 2.4% from the previous month to 5.56 million 60-kilogram (132-pound) bags. That is the most coffee in domestic warehouses since July 2009, the last time prices traded at current levels.

In addition, forecasts for rains this week in the growing areas of Brazil, the source of one-third of the world’s coffee, are expected to nourish the arabica crop that farmers will start picking in mid-2014.

Arabica coffee for December delivery on the ICE Futures U.S. exchange ended 3.6% lower at $1.1495 a pound, the lowest settlement since July 13, 2009.

Rains in Brazil are negative for prices because they “will create good flowering for the next crop,” said Jack Scoville, vice president at Price Futures Group in Chicago. Coffee trees flower before the fruit containing the coffee beans emerges, and a strong flowering is usually indicative of the size and quality of the harvest.

Expectations for a record “off-year” coffee harvest during the current season in Brazil’s two-year crop cycle have also weighed on the market for months.

“The current crop harvest has proceeded well [and] most traders are still bearish [in the] longer term on big world supplies,” Mr. Scoville said.

Société Générale has reduced its fourth-quarter forecast for arabica-coffee prices “due to the fourth consecutive season of arabica production exceeding demand and a continuing global surplus,” the Paris-based bank said in a note last week. For the last three months of the year, Société Générale projects prices will average about $1.15 a pound.

Prices are likely to stay depressed until demand picks up, traders said.

“We’re still trying to find a harvest low in here,” said Fain Shaffer, president of Infinity Trading Corp., an Indianapolis-based brokerage. He expects prices could trade as low as $1 a pound–a level last seen in September 2006–before that happens.

Researchers Quantify Bird-Friendly Habitat Near Borer-Infested Farms

Biologists at Stanford have for the first time put a monetary value on the pest-control benefits of birds on coffee farms. While the research was localized to a Costa Rican farm, it may help shed some light for coffee producers worldwide on how to mitigate borer beetle infestations through better land management.

The Stanford biologists noted a direct correlation between leaving some land in its natural state and the number of birds that return, many species of which feed on the coffee borers. The closer a patch of unfarmed land with trees is to the crops, the less infestation. The research team even discovered that a small stand of trees in farm land can be more productive in naturally fighting off beetles than large swaths of natural land that may be on the periphery.

“The benefits that we might get are huge,” said Daniel Karp, a graduate student in biology and lead author of the study, published last month in Ecology Letters. “There’s lots of unrealized value in these small patches of rainforest. This looks like a sustainable, win-win opportunity for pest management.”

Stanford biologists have been studying coffee farms in Costa Rica since the 1990s, but the research has recently focused more on problems caused by the borer beetle, which burrows its way through the coffee cherry and back out, destroying it. The beetle was first found on Costa Rican coffee crops in 2010.

In this latest study, researchers first calculated coffee bean yield of infected plants that were housed in bird-proof cages versus yield from infected plants in the open, where birds were eating the beetles. Next, they needed to confirm which species of birds were eating the beetles, and whether the birds required forest to survive.

“We had the not-so-glamorous task of collecting the birds’ poop, and then taking it back to Stanford and looking through the DNA within it to learn which birds were the pest preventers,” Karp said.

The team said five species of birds contributed to cutting infestation rates in half, and the birds were more abundant on farms featuring more forests.

Said Karp, “Depending on the season, the birds provide $75 to $310 increases in yield per hectare of farmland.”

SCAA Relocates Main Headquarters

Dear Member,

For the past ten years the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) has occupied waterfront offices in downtown Long Beach, California. This space has served us well, albeit at a not inconsiderable cost. Over the past four years the association management has begun to promote two new concepts around how and where we work. The first of these was the adoption of new tools for remote work environments, including VOIP phone systems, increased Video Conference capability and greater use of IM and e-mail services. This allowed us to hire the right people for the job regardless of where they preferred to live. The second was driven by an assessment of how members access and use our headquarters space. In the last few years members have used the SCAA space primarily for lab based training and for meetings. Members also gave us feedback on how they would like to interact with the SCAA, and the overwhelming response was “locally”. That is, members told us clearly that the wanted to see SCAA events, training, and community building near them. To that end, we have committed to changing how and where we are physically located.


As of this writing, now that our lease term is up, SCAA will no longer occupy the nearly 11,000 square feet of prime ocean front space we have leased for the past ten years. Instead, we will reduce our footprint at our headquarters in Southern California by half, and our costs by the same or more. At the same time, we will be embarking on a program to develop a series of regional offices, bringing a consistent SCAA presence to many more parts of the country. Our first planned expansion will be into the Pacific Northwest, but over the next few years we will also be looking for suitable space in the Northeast, the Southeast and the Midwest. Our goal is to dramatically increase our regional presence and to provide a greater level of accessibility for members.

 
We are temporarily located in Seal Beach, California while we continue to implement our plans for a smaller, more efficient headquarters office. We will begin the search for suitable space in the Pacific Northwest later this year, and will work with the Board of Directors and active volunteers to identify our next regional openings. In the meantime, all of our operations are ongoing as usual, and you can reach us by phone at the same numbers (562.624.4100), by mail at the same address 330 Golden Shore, Suite 50, Long Beach, CA 90802 and at the same e-mail addresses. Contact information for members of the SCAA staff can be found here. If you need to send a package please post to 3020 Old Ranch Parkway, Suite 300, Seal Beach, CA 90740. For inquiries about training space or an SCAA certified lab space, give us a call and we can assist you with one of our network of SCAA Certified Teaching Labs.
Ric Rhinehart, Executive Director
Specialty Coffee Association of America

Picture : A day in the life of your morning cup…

10887710-papua-new-guinea--circa-1977-two-10-toea-stamps-printed-in-the-independent-state-of-papua-new-guinea

” Dear Joe,
I am trying to bring the coffee bags over today but our truck has a bit of problem as we are trying to get it sorted, esp., with registration. Also the weather is not good as it is raining outside right now and can’t able to load the green bean bags onto truck. I therefore would like to inform you that I want to have them to the FTM yard as soon as I get stuff here sorted and if the weather gets better.

I am also thinking of making it tomorrow, around 10 -11:00 am, will this be okay with you?

Thanks and regards,

Ben ”

Enjoy your coffee!

 

How to Make Perfect Coffee

The science of what makes coffee great

Coffee has become recognized as a human necessity. It is no longer a luxury or an indulgence; it is a corollary of human energy and human efficiency.

William H. Ukers, All About Coffee (1922)

It was November 23, 2010. We were in Surf City, North Carolina, getting ready to fortify ourselves before another grueling day. As the thin, black liquid oozed into the stained carafe, we stood bleary-eyed.

We were roommates, Marine infantry officers, perpetually sleep-deprived from the training, the planning, the preparations for war. Back then coffee was little more than a bitter, caffeine-delivery system. It was just what we needed to stay awake.

We were missing so much.

Fast-forward a few years. We’ve hung up our uniforms, we’re in the kitchen, and we’re making coffee. Great coffee. The kind that reminds you first thing in the morning of everything else you appreciate in life. It’s about the art, the ritual, and the moments shared across a table.

And yet, if you’re like us, no one ever taught you how to make coffee properly. Or how to appreciate it. When you stop in at your local coffee shop, everything is hidden away behind the counter, too far removed for you to understand. That was us not too long ago. But through trial and error—and an absurd amount of mistakes—we’ve managed to learn. It’s a shame to waste these moments on bad coffee, and if you’re going to drink it every day, or if you’re going to serve it to other people, it may as well be good, right?

Actually, it should be better than good. It should be perfect.

What is Good Coffee?

To understand good coffee, we have to start with how the coffee world measures its brews. After all, if you’re trying categorize your coffee, it helps if you have a benchmark.

Measuring the quality of coffee goes back to the 1950s, when MIT chemistry professor E. E. Lockhart conducted a series of surveys to determine American preferences. Basically, he surveyed a lot of coffee drinkers and asked them what they liked.

Lockhart published his findings in the form of the Coffee Brewing Control Chart, a graphical representation of what Americans at the time considered to be the best coffee. In the years since, the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) has confirmed that American tastes haven’t changed all that much. Perfection, at least to Americans, is a coffee that falls in the range of 18 to 22 percent Extraction with a brew strength between 1.15 and 1.35 percent Total Dissolved Solids.

Confused by the jargon? Don’t be.

The Percentage Extraction is the amount of coffee particles extracted from the original dry grounds. The Percentage of Total Dissolved Solids is the percentage of coffee solids actually in your cup of coffee (commonly known as “brew strength”). When you correlate these, the result is a Coffee Brewing Control Chart, with a target area in the center that highlights the optimal brew strength and extraction percentage.

When you’re brewing coffee, the goal is to get into that center square of perfection. Everyone seems to advocate their own sort of mystical process for achieving the right extraction, but we’re here to tell you it’s not that crazy.

Instead, the key is to start with the Golden Ratio of 17.42 units of water to 1 unit of coffee. The ratio will get you into that optimal zone, plus it is unit-less, which means you can use grams, ounces, pounds, stones, even tons if that’s your thing. So if you’re hoping for a 20 percent extraction against 1.28 percent Total Dissolved Solids, you can start with 30 grams of dry coffee grounds, 523 grams of water, and then adjust from there.

Meanwhile, a common mistake is to mix up Percentage Extraction with Total Dissolved Solids. It’s important to understand the difference.

Strength refers to the solids that have dissolved in your coffee. Percentage Extraction refers to the amount that you removed from the dry grounds. The point is that strong coffee has almost nothing to do with bitterness, caffeine content, or the roast profile, and everything to do with the ratio of coffee to water in your cup.

The great innovation in measuring all this stuff came about in 2008, when a company called Voice Systems Technology decided to use a refractometer—a device that bounces light waves off of particles—in conjunction with a program they developed called ExtractMojo.

The device allows you to get an accurate reading on Total Dissolved Solids and then compare your brews to the Coffee Brewing Control Chart. In this way, you can refine your results based on science as well as taste.

Some purists chafe against the idea of introducing a device like this to measure the quality of a cup of coffee. As former Marines, it reminds us of a similar debate on the topic of gun control.

Are guns the problem, or is it how people use them?

Are refractometers the problem, or is it how people use them?

These are hotly debated issues and for good reason. But both are tools, and just like any other, they can be misused.

We prefer to think of it like castle doctrine; use your refractometer in the privacy of your own home.

The Principles of How to Make Coffee​

Once you understand what good coffee actually is, and once you understand how people measure it, it’s much easier to learn how to make coffee.

The six fundamental principles are:

    1. Buy good coffee beans: They should be whole beans, sustainably farmed, and roasted within the past few weeks. Plus, if you want to take part in the “third wave” coffee renaissance currently sweeping America, they should be a lighter roast so you can actually taste the flavors—the terroir—of the coffee. With darker roasts, you’re missing out. We know it’s a weird analogy, but a dark roast is just like taking a nice steak and charring it beyond recognition.

 

    1. Grind your coffee just before brewing: Roasted coffee is very delicate and perishable. Coffee has many more flavor compounds than wine, but those compounds deteriorate quickly when exposed to oxygen. Grinding your coffee just before you brew it keeps those compounds intact, and it’s the number one thing you can do to improve your coffee at home.

 

    1. Store your coffee properly: Beans which you aren’t using immediately should be kept in an airtight container and away from sunlight. A major point of debate in the coffee world is whether to freeze or not freeze your coffee. We fall somewhere in between. If it’s going to be more than two weeks before brewing, we freeze our coffee. Otherwise, we avoid it.

 

    1. Use the right proportion of coffee to water: A major error people make is not using enough coffee. We empathize—it almost seems wasteful to add that extra scoop. But the Golden Ratio we mentioned earlier really is a great starting point and the simplest way to get into that perfect zone.

 

    1. Focus on technique: It’s beyond the scope of this guide to go through step-by-step instructions for every method, but underlying all of them is the fact that brewing great coffee is about precision and consistency. Each brewing method has its own particular techniques, but by doing the same thing over and over you fix your mistakes and improve incrementally.

 

  1. Use quality tools: You’re going to get better results from high quality tools than you will with junk from the bargain bin. Yes, it’s more of an upfront investment, but in the long run it’s worth it. Good tools last longer and make the entire brewing process much easier.

Classic Methods and Fine Tuning

With these principles in mind, pick a preparation method. These lie along a spectrum: Body on one end, flavor clarity on the other, with variations in between. The balance between body and flavor clarity is determined by the parts of the coffee bean that make it into your cup.

Unfortunately, way back at the beginning of our journey when this was all foreign to us, no one ever explained why a French press had so much body or why a pour over had such articulate flavors. It was all shrouded in secrecy. So we took these mysteries at face value and filed our questions away.

Eventually, we discovered that the answer lay in chemistry, which divides the world into soluble and insoluble compounds. Soluble particles are extracted from the coffee grounds and contribute to flavor and aroma, while insoluble particles primarily contribute to the body of coffee. Since a roasted coffee bean is made up of both types of particles, the way you balance those during the extraction process determines the resulting character of your cup.

Do you prefer a richer, grittier cup of coffee? Try a French press. Looking for a cleaner cup that can highlight citrus notes from South America or berry flavors from Africa? Check out the pour over. Everyone’s preferences vary, but once you select a method, you can further fine tune your coffee by adjusting these variables:

    1. The grind size of your coffee beans: Grind size affects the extraction rate because it affects surface area. Beans that are coarsely ground have less surface area than the same amount of finely ground beans, making it more difficult for the water to penetrate and extract the coffee solids. A uniform grind size means that the extraction rate of the oils and acids in the coffee will be consistent. You won’t have large pieces that under-extract and small pieces that over-extract. It’s for this reason that you’ll often hear coffee experts exhorting people to invest in a good burr grinder. And guess what? They’re right.

 

    1. The temperature of your water: Temperature affects extraction rate because solids dissolve more quickly at higher temperatures. Temperature also affects flavor because it determines which solids get dissolved. Using water that’s too hot will lead to sour coffee since it releases unpleasant acids from the coffee beans. For this reason, we recommend brewing with water between 195 and 202 degrees. And remember, measure the water actually in the coffee and not just what you’re pouring. There’s often a difference.

 

    1. The amount you agitate your coffee grounds during brewing: You can further manipulate the brewing process by agitating the coffee grounds as the water passes through them. Agitation works because it accelerates the spread of dissolved coffee solids throughout the water, exposing the coffee grounds to fresher water more quickly. But agitation also has the effect of cooling the water, which we know can affect the process. In the end, it’s just one of those things that you learn through trial and error.

 

  1. The ratio of water to coffee: Strange how it keeps coming back to this, right? The key difference here is that when you’re fine tuning, you aren’t sticking strictly to the Golden Ratio. Instead, you’re adjusting to taste. To make adjustments more easily, invest in a scale. You can be more precise by using weight—instead of volume—to measure your coffee and water.

One final point. As any good barista will tell you, make sure to adjust only one variable at a time so you can accurately track results. Changing two variables at a time confounds the outcome, and you won’t know whether it was because you changed variable X or variable Y.

This Isn’t Rocket Science

For all our talk of chemistry, particles, molecules, and extraction percentages, brewing great coffee is much less about science and much more about art. Once you learn the principles that underly the brewing process, you can develop a routine which suits you perfectly.

And that’s the beauty of coffee. When we first started our journey, we were embarrassingly ignorant about the most basic aspects. The choices, the culture, the equipment—it was all so overwhelming that we had no clue where to begin.

But pretty quickly we found ourselves climbing the coffee learning curve. Learning to brew great coffee didn’t have to take forever. It was a hobby that you could pick up on a Saturday morning and feel good about.

As we explored, there were good moments and bad ones, and stretches where it felt as if we couldn’t do anything right. We wasted a ton of time. We destroyed a lot of coffee. And although we read as much as we could, there were occasions when we were as stubborn as we were ignorant, days when we had to learn from our own mistakes because we didn’t understand or didn’t listen to what we had been taught.

But each mistake also meant progress. We had discovered one more thing which didn’t work. There was always something new to try, and in this haphazard fashion, we grew.

For us, this was the enduring lesson, that learning is continuous, that there is always room to improve, to explore, and to innovate.

And while much of the knowledge already existed, and although the modern exploration of coffee has been going on for at least a hundred years, through this journey, it was our turn to participate.

And now it’s yours.